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Wolf Rock 
Wyalusing ice 


Wisconsin


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Devils Lake. Crux of Stool Pidgeon. Photo: Henning...


Wisconsin Rocks 

Welcome to Wisconsin, home to some of the Upper Midwest's finest rock climbing venues. Probably, the most popular and highest quantity of climbing can be found at Devil's Lake. Nonetheless, there are other scattered crags in the state for those who are willing to drive and explore. Don't expect to find towering cliffs here, but there is an amazing quality and history to the climbing in the state.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wisconsin:
The Godfather   V4-5     Boulder   Box Canyon Boulders : Godfather Boulder
14. Sandstone Violence   V8     Boulder   Backbone Ridge : West Side- Backbone Ridge
Brinton's Crack   5.6     Trad   East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress
Peter's Project   5.7     Trad, TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress
Birch Tree Crack   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Roger's Roof   5.8     Trad, TR   East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart
Upper Diagonal   5.9     Trad, TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Congratulations   5.10a     Trad, TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Sometime Crack   5.10a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Dancing Madly Backwards   5.10b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone
Cheatah   5.10b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120 feet   East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way)   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall
Flake Route   5.10d PG13     Trad, TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Thoroughfare   5.11a     Trad   East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress
Straight No Chaser   5.11c     Trad   Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall
Gill's Nose   5.11c     TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Gill's Buttress
Son Of Great Chimney   5.11c     Trad   West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart
Acid Rock   5.12a     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   East Bluff - East Rampart : Gill's Buttress
Whiskey a Go-Go   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Y-Crack Wall
Secret Agent Man   5.13a     Sport, 65 feet   Governor Dodge State Park : Qual Wall
Browse More Classics in Wisconsin


Featured Route For Wisconsin
High Level Mustasche's

High Level Mustasche's V3  WI : Rib Mountain : Jurassics
Sit-start on good jug and arete move up using both sides of the block, dyno to top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI


Photos of Wisconsin Slideshow Add Photo
Our awesome state

Our awesome state

Van Hise Rock<br /><br />Located near Rock Springs, Van Hise Rock is named after renowned UW geologist Charles Van Hise.  Van Hise used this boulder in the 1890's to demonstrate concepts in metamorphic and structural geology to his students.<br /><br />Learned geologists and geographers from the University of Wisconsin used the Baraboo Range for decades to formulate theories in mountain building epochs.<br /><br />

Van Hise Rock

Located near Rock Springs, Van Hise...


"Flying Fin" <br />Sauk County Wisconsin

"Flying Fin"
Sauk County Wisconsin


"Flying Fin"<br />Sauk County, Wisconsin

"Flying Fin"
Sauk County, Wisconsin


Air Dodge

Air Dodge

info <br /><br />Any questions email me @ dfocus@hotmail.com

info

Any questions email me @ dfocus@hotmail.com


Kris Gorny's 9.7mm Beal after a fall where the rope was stuck in a flake/crack at the Lake.

Kris Gorny's 9.7mm Beal after a fall where the rop...

Devil's Lake from the top of the Old Sandstone bluff.  10/18/08<br /><br />photo by: John Knoernschild

Devil's Lake from the top of the Old Sandstone blu...

Devil's Lake. Looking down the East Bluff from the top of the Old Sandstone trail. 10/18/08<br /><br />photo by: John Knoernschild

Devil's Lake. Looking down the East Bluff from the...

Sauk County

Sauk County

Sauk County<br />Virgin Sandstone?

Sauk County
Virgin Sandstone?


Sauk County

Sauk County

Sauk County

Sauk County

Sauk County

Sauk County

Oh DEER!!

Oh DEER!!

Narrows Creek, central WI

Narrows Creek, central WI

Fall '07 colors at Devils Lake.

Fall '07 colors at Devils Lake.

No.  Not in Wisconsin.  Summit Shot of Wisco Climbers Pat Geoghegan and myself on Crazy Peak in Montana.  Crazy (11,209) is the high point in the Crazies and the most "prominant" in Montana.

No. Not in Wisconsin. Summit Shot of Wisco Climb...

Crazy Peak - The Crow Indians consider it to be the most sacred mountain on the northern plains.

Crazy Peak - The Crow Indians consider it to be th...

Crazy Peak - The rugged West Ridge route is mainly 3rd Class with a couple of short 4th Class sections.  It was a "motha".

Crazy Peak - The rugged West Ridge route is mainly...


Comments on Wisconsin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 23, 2008

Anyone climb at the cliffs near Greenleaf off WI Hwy 57? One hiker mentioned it had the same Niagara escarpment limestone as High Cliff State Park but taller cliffs.

By sweatpants
From: Chicago, Il
May 14, 2008

I was curious if anyone knows of any bouldering that's been found in southern wisconsin or northern Illinois that might not be very well known? Just figured I'd ask. any info is appreciated. thanks!

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
May 14, 2008

I scoped out a great deal of the central area just north of the border (my folks live there). The best I found was a stone watertower (project still), and a stone barn (V5 traverse)....any true rock was all choss or too short.

By tom wehr
May 17, 2008

Hello,

I just signed up, don't climb unless i have to.
i bought a rock that is better than rabbit rock in adams wi.
a few miles east of rabbit. strange area. curious about rock carvings
and animal burrows around it.

thanks,

Tom

By James M Schroeder
From: FIB town USA
May 19, 2008

Tom-

I'd be interested to check it out sometime Tom/ Are you interested in letting people climb on it?

Thanks,
James

By Leveille
From: Appleton, WI
Jul 26, 2008

Anyone climb around Niagara, Wi? It seems like there is a decently long and high cliff band with no houses on top or anything so it might be a city/county park. Maybe the mill there owns the part behind the mill but most of it seems pretty accessible. It does look quite virgin (dirty) though. It also looks like high quality High Cliff stone under the dirt/moss/etc. I checked out the Niagara's website and they don't really mention the cliffs specifically though it sounds like there are various other gorges, etc. in the area.

By Peter Arndt
From: Baraboo, WI
Jun 15, 2009

Accident/Fall as reported by "Baraboo News Republic":

http://www.wiscnews.com/bnr/news/454871

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 16, 2009

So what does that last line in the report mean? "The man, whose name was not released, was climbing in an area not designated for that activity." ????

Any ideas where he was climbing? The quarry perhaps?

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 16, 2009

John-- see comments under Devil's Lake page. Jay should these comments be moved there to prevent duplication of info?

By Peter Arndt
From: Baraboo, WI
Aug 17, 2009

John:
Reagarding the rock slide you heard. I recall years ago my geology prof. saying how rare it was that people have witnessed significant "natural" rock slides or rock avalanches at Devils Lake.
He cited the angle of repose of the talus slopes and how tight the quartzite blocks are.
So if indeed a rock slide occured it was an exceptional event. I will be curious to hear more about this.