Steorts' Ridge 

You can avoid the 3 rappels mentioned by hiking and downclimbing around past the aforementioned anchor. Skirt the top of the crag to the east, hike/climb down a ramp, around the corner, then over to a tree with a chain rap anchor. Climb down around 10 feet then straight left (easiest). This downclimb/hike off is easy but exposed, so be careful. Much faster than rappelling three times, especially if you stick a rope. As well, pulling your rope dislodges rocks onto folks climbing below, not a good thing at all.

I finally did this one today. Wow!! This is a must do. I was looking in my old book, and it has drawn topos of Dead Snag instead of the photo (much better). It shows the 2nd pitch dropping right from the belay station to the ledge and then continuing up past 2 old pitons, and then working through the bulge and into the hand/fist/offhand crack. I don't recommend this variation as it creates heinous rope drag, and it doesn't add anything. The crack on pitch 2 is great and protects well, and as John says, on the 3rd pitch protection is sparse. This 3rd pitch (to me at least) seemed very exposed, more so than the right variation on Outside Corner, JHCOB Wall.

Also, I believe the variation Peter mentions is actually the 2nd half of pitch 2 on Jig's Up. Also very enjoyable.

A BC classic! Don't cheat yourself on pitch 3... get on that arete!

If there are other parties at the top about to rappel (or if you have two ropes) this is a fast way to get down:

(The description is long, but it is very easy to set up)

Set up the first rappel with a rope (BLUE) doubled. Send the first person down with the second rope (YELLOW). When she gets to the first anchor, she threads the chains with one end of the YELLOW rope, ties it to one end of the BLUE rope, then puts a figure-8-on-a-bight on the YELLOW rope (on the same side that the BLUE rope is tied to). She clips a locker through this knot and across to the other side of the YELLOW rope. Now the YELLOW rope cannot pull through the anchor as she does one long rappel on one strand all the way to the deck. While she's setting all this up, everyone else can start rappelling. Each person gets off of the BLUE rope, and can almost immediately get on the YELLOW rope. The last person down pulls the BLUE rope from the top anchor and lowers it to the ground. They can either rap single strand on the YELLOW, or they can take the carabiner off and rap double-strand on both ropes. Now pull the BLUE rope and stack both.

We got 5 people down in under ten minutes this way.

Great climb! Crack on Pitch 2 gets a bit off-width. Might want to bring a couple of the big cams such as Metolius #8-10.

If you have two 60m ropes simply tie them together. You can rap all the way from the anchors. You will end up on a small shelf about 5 feet above the ground which you can easily scramble down.

I did this in two pitches with my 60m rope. The first pitch is enjoyable, but the second is excellent. On the first pitch I went up to the second ledge (the flat one with a big block you can sling). The second pitch transitions about 10 feet to the right and then goes directly up the obvious fist size crack. I protected this with a single #3 Camalot which I walked up once. It would be better to have two large pieces. The crack is a solid fist jam crack, but very smooth rock. At the top of the crack move out onto the arete and enjoy the view. Simply amazing. I clipped two fixed cams, a fixed nut, and a solid bolt. Above the crack, other than the fixed gear, there is a couple places for small cams (.1 - .3 Camalot). Overall, protection on the last 50 feet is sparse, but not run out, and the holds are plentiful and solid. Sling a solid tree for your 2nd pitch anchor. I had about 15 feet or rope left when I topped out.

To view a 10 minute car to car ascent of this climb, (for the record it usually takes me 10 minutes to walk to the base) check out www.door5.com where you can watch Ryan McDermott's free solo in running shoes.

A 70 meter rope will get you to the belay ledge for the last pitch. You can sling a small ledge on the last pitch arete for additional pro. If you do rap you can combine raps 2 & 3 w/70 meter rope but barely.

great climb, can combine the last two pitches into one on a 60m rope. Both belay stations each have an old piton. Second pitch vertical crack has tons of cams in it so I guess its a gobbler. I didn't use anything bigger than a metolius #8. Belay stations love nuts and maybe bring some webbing or cordelette for the tip top tree anchor.

Fairly straightforward climbing on pitches 1 and 2, although each seems to have crux moves. The cruxes protect well, though. The belays at the end of P1 and P2 do not have chains; you will have to set your own anchors. Both belays have good stances and plenty of places to set good pieces.

Sketchy pro on the third pitch, especially after the bolt. Seems like the hand ledge 12-15 feet above the bolt was the first opportunity for a solid placement. Plenty of back and forth from the arete to the crack system. Climbing is easy on the arete and the view is magnificent.

However, after watching Ryan McDermott's sub 10 minute car-to-car lap, posting a bunch of beta seems ... trivial?

anyone else get their rope stuck after the first rappel? I think this is 2/2 for me. What the reaaaaaal dill

Great introduction to the wonderful climbing conditions in UT
Bring larger gear for the offwidth crack in pitch 2 - made for an uneasy couple moves with small cams in ...
Great views, great exposure - Totally in the moment! Thanks Russ!!!

Combining p2 and p3 is reasonable if you runner things long and don't place too much gear (or carefully place it in line). This makes for one of the best pitches of climbing I've ever done.

The downclimb to the south and down a single rap (or downclimb if you want) seems A LOT easier than 3 raps. It takes all of 4 minutes to walk over to the single rap from a tree with a chain around it.

No problem with the rope on the rappels for me except at the end when I tossed it into the tree, my fault not the routes. The second rap was kind of fun going over the little roof and you come down so close to your stuff at the bottom it's easy. We climbed this about 8:30 am on a Saturday and didn't see anyone else around till we were on our way down. The third pitch is great. You can climb up either side or both and it's so airy you seemed exposed in every direction, not just down. Seemed short and quick for 3 pitches. I wanted it to keep going.