The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Mike Morley at the Top of the long and varried Rou...
Description
A good pitch with lots of variety. This climb requires 2 ropes to get down from. Not far left of Tofu Crack the wall is light in color and sports a few more lines not in Bloom's Book. The right most of these has a plaque labeled "Mouse Meat 5.10+" which seemed accurate enough. The climb starts vertical and goes to slightly less than vertical in a decent crack system, though it is not the typical Windgate varnished brown patina of the area. Climb 150' to a bolted anchor and rap on 2 ropes. There is a no-hands rest about 40' up that a TR climber can sit in for a "switch" of the belay if you have tied two 70m ropes together to do that.
Location
The next obvious handcrack system left of Tofu Crack but right of the twin cracks of 'Even Ecstacy 5.9+' and the unnamed left-facing flake route. The wall is a tawny blonde here and not the typical Indian Creek brown varnish.
Protection
2 ropes plus a variety rack. It can be protected will with a double or triple set of cams to 3" and a few large nuts. The bottom of the climb is the real crux (1.5"-2" cams) at a bulge and the rock is less solid, and the top is a crux at perhaps .75" cams. The less straight forward nature of the protection on the bottom of the pitch make it non-ideal for a Indian Creek newbie.
RSS Feed
