The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Looking up the route Powders of Persuasion on the ...
Description
This is the huge dihedral on the Bridger Jack butte. Pitch 1: easy 5.9 climbing, maybe 80'. Pitch 2: an 80' offwidth pitch with some sand. The gear is solid, though. A detached pillar provides some great stemming. A 5.10+ slot move to an exciting reach finishes the pitch. Pitch 3: The business. A 180' pumper. The pitch starts off with some 3.5 camalot size and goes to mostly hands (1 camalot and 2.5 friend). Although no single move on the pitch is very hard, it is unrelenting and offers no feet except for the crack. There is no fixed anchor at the top of this pitch, but some small gear like green aliens will do the trick. Pitch 4: Several options are here. We went to the left, which was mostly chossy low angle face climbing typical of any route that tops out on the Bridger Jack.
Rap: One single rope rap off the top to the notch between the Bridger Jack and the King of Pain. A double rope rap about half way down the King of Pain to a solid fixed anchor. BE CAREFUL when pulling your rope from this rap. Many a party has gotten their ropes stuck. Another rap to the ground.
Protection
Some of everything. The third pitch does not have a fixed anchor. Some small stuff, like .3 camalots will do the trick.
Great route. Climbed it on 5/23/04. Lots of more moderate climbing. Sandy and a little loose 2nd pitch in the chimney. Loose top out pitch. Helmet would be good. Fixed pin partway up the enduro corner of the 3rd pitch. Could be broken up into 2 pitches. Watch the rope on 2nd rappel. My gear recommendation is simply my opinion. Conserve gear on the 3rd pitch or you might run out.
Recommended gear for this route:1 x Blue TCU -or- 1/2" piece2 x Yellow TCUs -or- 3/4" pieces1 x Orange TCU -or- 1" piece1 x Purple .5 Junior Camalot1 x Green .75 Junior Camalot1 x #2 Friend1-2 x Red #1 Camalots1 x #2.5 Friend3 x Gold #2 Camalots3 x #3 Friends2-3 x Blue #3 Camalots -or- #3.5 Friends2 x Grey/Black #3.5 Camalot - or- #4 Friends1 x Purple #4 Camalot (maybe 2 if you don't have the previous size)1 x Green #5 Camalot
We brought (camalots) 2x3.5, 2x4, 1x4.5, and 1x5 as well as the smaller stuff. Perhaps overkill for some but I was happy that we did. Enjoyed the route but the sand (and mud in the chimney) definitely took away from it some - I know its the desert but this route is a direct drain for many dirty ledges up high (and we were probably the first after a sizable rainstorm). The last pitch takes some route finding and was not straightforward. Interesting collection of items on top of the butte.
"Interesting collection of items" you say. I take it you found the one we brought up last time (a book of sorts, with a picture?) :) We got a laugh out of it.
You can rap off this route with one 70m rope (three rappels)- short rap to notch, be careful on 2nd rap (just makes it to ledge-reach down to clip in with long sling), Rap to ground.
Bill and I climbed this a year or two ago and thought it was a killer route. I had more fun on this then Rim Shot. The offwidth on pitch 2 was nothing to worry about, I suck at offwidth and thought it was not that bad. There are enough holds and features around to get by without doing many offwidth moves.
Are these people high? All but about 100' of this route blow. Ledgy first pitch, dirty as hell chimney, 100' feet of powdery hand crack (bonus), to a ledgy, loose, traversy garbage pitch. WOW!
I was on route and I do remember some sand and I still thought it was a good route. Maybe you got some of that sand in your pussy? Just joking. It must have just been a great day if the route is really that bad.
There is a correction needed to the beta that you can make the rap down Wildflower with one 70m rope. This is not true, I have a factory 70m Eidelweiss rope and was about 10' short getting from the notch to the anchor midway to the ground. My rope is also older and does not have as much stretch as it used to. You can however reach the ground from the notch with two 70m ropes.
By Scott Bennett From: Superior, CO 2 days ago rating: 5.10+
A good adventure route if you're tired of all that perfect clean jamming at the crags.
The route was just going into the shade when we did it (early afternoon). If you want sun, get up early.
As of 11-09, there was a fixed anchor on the big ledge after P3 (the long corner pitch). There's a new bolt and a fixed stopper, but they're a long ways back (around to the right). I had a 70m rope and was able to reach the anchor, but it looked like a 60m might not have made it.
As for the raps, we made it down with a single 70m. One easy rap to the notch, and then one very short rap (climber's left) to another anchor (I think you could rap all the way from the top of the butte to here, combining the first two raps). One long rap (70m required probably?), then one more to the ground.
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