The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Just right of 3AM Crack is splitter handcrack with a thin start and a couple of wider pods. The first move is bouldery, but once you're on the pedestal, the fun begins. Perfect jams lead up to some akwardness, then more fun jamming to the anchor. 1 rope will get you up and down.
I thought this climb was as good as any other line we climbed at the creek. It felt more like 5.10 than 5.11. Don't miss the rest.
Protection
Rap off the 3AM anchors and swing right to a 2-bolt bolt station 80' off the ground, and set up your TR. The guidebooks give this climb an R. It seems like the first 10 feet wouldn't be worth protecting as the rock is suspect. After that, the pro should be bomber to the anchors.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Mar 30, 2003
I believe the "R" rating in the '99 guidebook refers to the section at the top that one used to have to traverse to the 3AM anchor. There is now an anchor atop Wild Works, eliminating this traverse. The route protects just fine.
this route was well protected even through the soft area near the beginning. nice hands to a pod where one needs to delve deep to jam and place. P1 ends on fingers to a set of anchors 80 feet up. P2 is the crux 11 pitch.
It is probably best not to follow the guidebook's gear recommendation. You will probably want more than 2 sets of cams. One set of cams to a #3 Camalot, with 3 #1s and 5 #2s will probably make you more comfortable to the first set of anchors.
By Ryan Kelly From: the gym Sep 23, 2008 rating: 5.10
I was under the impression that the .11 rating was for the second pitch. The first pitch is .10.
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