The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
I only seconded this route, and i don't have the most detailed gear beta.
Located just right of Amaretto Corner, from the ground you'll see a thin hands crack up to a very thin chimney/offwidth, to a four foot horizonatal roof, etc. The chimney was pretty tough and bloody for me, and it has plenty of loose rock, so be careful. The roof actually is not that tough in comparison to the rest of the climb- just a really sweet undercling-highstep-lieback move.
For me, the toughest part of the climb was the LONG thin hands crack that goes from above the roof to the anchors. Very few rests, and continuous green and red camalots... ugh.
The anchors are kind of sketchy. First of all, I think that some rock has fallen off this route, leaving about 10-15 feet of ugly slab from the end of the crack up to the anchors. The anchors themselves are one old fixed piton, and one fixed hex. NO CHAINS!!! You may want to bring replacement webbing.
This is not a very good route to top-rope, as it is nearly 140 feet high. Furthermore, you will DEFINITELY want to back up the anchors for belaying your second- if you even use them at all.
All in all, there is good climbing on this route. Just be aware that it is not one of the Creek's pseudo-sporty, non-commital affairs.
A great route to jump on when all the trade routes are crowded. I found the climbing to be quality and very interesting with an enduro factor to the finish. There are chockstones in the chimney which take stoppers very well; I would suggest bringing a few. The roof moves are amazing and the thinhands to the top on worsening rock are a lot of fun.
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