The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This climb is truly incredible. The greatest part is that its nice hard climbing that varies incredibly in size, its not the same move all the way to the chains. Dos Hermanos is located to the left of the Drainpipe Corner and to the right of the Elephant route and chocolate corner. Just look for the sweet looking crack busting right through the middle of the huge roof. Start by heading up a system of twin cracks. Actually the left one is a crack, but you can't really get you're feet into it cause it has an edge pointing away from you, and the right crack is really only a rail you can slap and lieback and heelhook your way up. The feet are mostly smears on the face. The first crux comes right before you hit the low angle section, trying to get your feet up on a ledge. You can rest here as long as you want, its no hands. Next, head up the steep heros handjams to a rest right under the roof. Reach out as far as you can and place a #3 camalot, then jam out the roof, keeping your feet in the crack. Depending on hand size the roof is either easy(large hands), hard(cupping, normal hands), or highly improbable(womans hands). Look for crimpers on the left side to help you pull the lip. The last move is literally the crux of the whole climb. Super good fun.
Protection
The first bit starts with yellow/red aliens and .5 camalots till you're through the first crux. Then throw in a .75 camalot or two. The crack leading to the roof is #2 camalots, so really you don't need any(or so they say). Through the roof two #3 camalots will get you to the chains.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Mar 25, 2002 rating: 5.12a
The Crux is lower for small-fingered people- but the move up through the roof can be hard too. For a small man-hand size, you'll find it's just plain too small to get a fist in. The hand will go in sideways, but will be so bent that the fingers can't flex. The hand can go in the "flat" way- try folding your thumb as if to touch the base of the pinkey finger with the tip. This gave me just enough purchase to hang on, although I'd already hung on the route anyway.
I would have to disagree with the comment that the last move is the crux of the climb. Although a little difficult, you get a great rest before the final bulge. I think the crux is about half way up in the finger section.
For me, the last roof is undoubtedly the crux. I have skinny hands, so the jams out the roof at the end are just too big. I've climbed the lower crux clean a couple of times, but always fail to pull the last roof.
By far my favorite route in Donnelley. If you want a change from the long splitters or corners, this great route offers a whole lot of diverse climbing in 90 feet. There are new anchors below the roof, but that takes away part of the fun.
The anchors (lower and upper) got replaced last year. Thanks to Climbing Magazine's ARI. Just a note for you desert rats that still like drilled angles - I funked both the top angles with a light yank on the funkness. These were not the first ones I cleaned that way. I have NEVER been able to clean an expansion bolt this easily.
Chris Kalous
By adampeters From: Golden, Colorado Apr 25, 2007 rating: 5.11+
I thought this was a Ruckman Bros route? hence the name Dos hermanos. Correct if wrong. Great route.
I'm a bit confussed by the two sets of anchors. Why would anyone place a set of anchors just before the crux, or in this case, one of the crux's when an anchor already exist above? Shoud we place anchors before the crux on every climb? Perhaps we should remove the first set of anchors. Anyone know the history here?
I agree Greg, pretty silly to have a set of anchors before the roof. When I first climbed this route in 2002 I think there was only one bolt before the roof now there is a full blown anchor. Sorry but I have no idea why any bolts were placed below the roof there is bomber gear.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jan 11, 2008 rating: 5.12a
I agree w/ tony. I recall that there were two anchors back in the mid 90s. I replaced them both (see above comment) because some people would use the bottom one whether I did or not, the webbing was ugly, and I generally think chopping bolts is more about ego than conservation. In a place like Donnelly, where so many people cut their teeth, and there is very little hard climbing, it doesn't seem like that big of a deal. If you have small hands, I imagine that the top could ruin your day pretty quickly. If you do decide to pull that low anchor, please consider using the chains to replace another anchor in the creek, as they were donated expressly for that purpose.
Those upper bolts should be able to be tightened since they are Rawls.
By Nathan Furman From: Salt Lake City, Utah Mar 26, 2008
I loved this climb! Interesting, fun, challenging, varied--maybe the best climb I've done in Indian Creek. I have bigger hands; the roof was very mellow (#3 camalots) with great feet, but the finger section down low was hard. Being able to fire in .5 camalots off a pumpy stance seems pretty key.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Nov 4, 2008
Best route at Donnelly. hard for me to hang a grade on this... Bloom guide calls it .11+ which feels right to me. Crux for me was not placing an extraneous #3 high which got in my way. Placed 2 #3s from the stance at the roof and fired next go.
Bolts tightened on 1/30/09. Good as new. The hangers get rotated when you clean or toprope with a directional. I believe this is why they loosened up. Begs the question, why two years of comments about loose bolts, but no wrenching?
By Matt Toensing From: gunnison co Apr 27, 2009 rating: 5.12-
Absolutely Fantastic!!! Bloom's guidebook calls it a 5.11+.
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