The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
This beautiful lieback crack is positioned right in the middle of Supercrack buttress, somewhere right of Gorilla, and somewhat left of Coyne. Look for a large left leaning lieback with a couple of bulges interspersed with killer rests. The left hand wall is a really cool rippled rock that looks like little waves or small dunes on a beach. Start on a small pedestal and jam up the corner for a ways before busting into a lieback over a bulge. Easy, low angle climbing leads to another liebacking bulge up high to the anchors. A really cool climb.
Protection
A couple of cams or each size from about #0.5 Camalot to #2 Camalot. The crack changes sizes alot so you only need a couple of each size.
What a pretty seam. As an I-Creek 10d, be prepared to place gear on a lieback or cruise to the rests. Bring a couple #0.75 and 0.5 Camalots. A black tri-cam worked nicely before the layback crux. Enjoy.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Feb 28, 2006 rating: 5.10+
Best on the wall in my opinion. Great cruxes, great rests, a variety of gear, and a sprint to the finish. I used (BDs) 4x0.5, 4x0.75, 4x1, 4x2, and 1x3.... yes you could do it with 2 of each size, but it is a long pitch (120 feet?), so do the math.
RSS Feed
