The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
Near the crux. You can see three strikes your out...
Description
For everyone (myself included) who thinks Indian Creek ratings are generally soft...well, jump on this one. Though the crux is short, it is quite desperate and comes at you right at the end where the splitter crack pinches to tips with no feet. Just try clipping the anchors without grabbing them! I've heard you can set a toprope on this by swinging over from "3 Strikes You're Out" which is immeadiately to the right. The crux section is short enough though that it's just as easy to lead and aid the finish if you need to.
Protection
I would say doubles in sizes of yellow aliens through red camalot, with triples of #.5 and #.75 camalots. Bring a green alien or blue TCU for the finish.
I tr'd the extension this weekend. I believe its called Aire-Sweden (.13b). The crux is ultra-desparate arete slapping while crimping the crack. I think its only seen one ascent. Definitely worth tr'ing. We rigged the tr from three strikes.
Placing gear on this climb is strenuous; I would recommend the following, in order: one yellow alien (or two if you're paranoid about falling on a single one); one #2 Friend; two .75 camalots; one .5 camalot; and one more yellow alien or .4 camalot; a green alien to aid the last move if you can't clip the chains.
By C Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.12b
Great line that gets progressively harder - the finger stacks get you pumped for the crux at the top. Good gear the whole way so go for it!
I'm able to get gear in when the crack tapers down to fingers before the anchor. There are actually decent openings in the crack for your feet there as well. I would not be too excited about running it out 15-feet to the anchors. Most admirable though!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
