The BLM office in Monticello has asked the Friends of Indian Creek to remind climbers that there is a 14-day limit on camping on BLM Land. The F.O.I.C. understands that there is a bit of a history of staying in the Creek for far longer, but heavy climber-traffic in the area has made the BLM take notice of this tradition. Be aware that overstaying the 14-day limit makes climbers look as if we feel the rules don't apply to us and thus has an effect on long-term access. Moving your campsite throughout the season, or perhaps finding a site outside the main Indian Creek area, will not only help smooth relations with the BLM, but will also keep you from possibly getting hit with a fine.
BETA PHOTO: Triple Jeopardy starting from 1/3 of the way up. ...
Description
A fun moderate route and good one for beginning leaders or to set up for people on their first trip.
Just left of 3am crack on the far left side of the buttress. Look for an anchor about 40' up and consider the options. There are a variety of ways to get up there and they're all relatively fun and easy.
Protection
Various depending on which option is taken. Regardless doubles of various sizes should be sufficient.
This route is rated 5.9 in the Stewart Green book, but 5.8 seems about right. Lots of rest, lots of options, short, gear every inch of the way. Great intro leading route for this area. Unfortunately, there aren't many near this easy.
We looked for this route so a friend could do his first lead here, and after a lot of bewilderment, we realize that it very well may have fallen. The broken column collapsed! Maybe worth taking a look at, its kind of weird.
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