Climber preparing to start the exposed and excitin...
Description
High Exposure. The climbing itself is flawless, but when one considers that the FA was done by pioneers Hans Kraus and Fritz Wiessner in 1941, it is even more incredible! The name, of course, is completely appropriate for this must-do Gunks mega-classic.
The High E buttress is an obvious right-facing arete that is visible from the drive in from New Paltz. It is located about halfway along the base of the Trapps, right of the MF area and left of Bonnie's Roof. The High E access trail is about a 17-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 13-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.
P1: Begin the climb in a chimney/stemming corner left of the arete. Climb up this corner until it is possible to traverse up and right across the face, to a fantastic, spacious triangular belay ledge (this is the GT ledge) right on the arete below a large roof. Belay from natural gear or sling the huge boulder on the ledge. 5.4, 170'. This pitch was originally split into two, by belaying in the corner before heading out onto the face, but can be easily combined into one with careful rope management.
P2: This is the money pitch, and is just about as exciting as 5.6... or 5.7 or 5.8 for that matter... can be. Climb up from the ledge (it's easiest to begin at the left side) and traverse right to the obvious place to turn the corner and pull the roof. There are blind jugs up there that facilitates this move, but the exposure is immediate and the rock is steep! Continue up the face past gear, jugs, and fixed pins, trending left back towards the arete, until you top out. Exhilarating! 5.6, 100'.
Communication between the clifftop and the GT is notoriously difficult here, so plan accordingly. Descend climber's right from three bolted rap stations -- only one rope needed.
Also consider the Directissima variation instead of doing the original first pitch. Done this way the climb checks in at 5.9 and is three pitches, but you get what you pay for -- a first pitch that rivals the second in terms of quality.
A great top pitch. If you have solid leading skills, don't talk yourself out of leading it. Yes it can be intimidating the 1st or 5th time pulling throught the crux from under the roof to the side wall. Oh well, that's Gunks 5.6 and this climb has bomber hand holds all the way up the 3rd pitch, great gear and enough air to keep you talking/smilling/skitzing and bragging about that pitch forever...
Once you pull around the roof and are onto THE WALL don't forget to breathe and smile.
The bad thing about the 3rd pitch is it's not 500' long.
***Warning***
One of my partners has gotten a #1 Camalot off the route, left behind by a previous party. Another partner 2 weeks ago picked up another #1 Camalot off the ground at the start of Directissima.
First pitch is actualy listed as 2 in Swain's guide book. It traverses and I remember stretching a 60M, although this was years ago.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Dec 6, 2006
GoBotRocker -- one of those #1s was dropped by me (or my partner)! I'll send you an email with details. JL
By Joe M From: Rapid City, SD Sep 2, 2007 rating: 5.6
Such a great climb! Definitely one of my all time favorites! The first two pitches can be combined into one if you have a 70m rope. The move out onto the High E wall is such a thrill and the rest of the pitch is just super fun! Can't wait to do it again!
Better yet, use Directissima to the GT ledge and finish on the money pitch of High E.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Oct 29, 2007 rating: 5.6
Did this once Saturday night by headlamp, then again last night (sunday) by headlamp, this climb is incredibly classic, no matter the cicumstances of the ascent.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 8, 2007 rating: 5.6
The first 2 pitches (as described by Williams) can easily be linked into 1, but you will likely have significant rope drag towards the end, even with long runners.
I really wish I could give this route 4 stars, but I can't. Let's be honest, it's overrated. The final pitch from the GT Ledge to the top is totally worth the hype; it's awesome. But the first pitch sucks balls, and that's all there is to it.
#4 Camalot recommended for going through the roof. a #3 will work, but a 4 is much better. One of the best routes I've ever done anywhere. You're surprised how good the holds are on the second pitch and they just keep going!
As for the rappel, if you're using 2 ropes, can definitely be done in 2 rappels instead of 3.
It should also be noted - sling whatever piece you place before The Move long; legend tells a story of a climber whose rope was chopped when he fell above the move, and his rope was pulled across the sharp lip of the roof. The legend says that he fell to the ground (!) but suffered only a broken ankle.
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