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United Kingdom

Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Aug 12, 2007
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron
Latitude: 54.4189  Longitude: -2.0215 
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Stanage Edge in the Peak District


Description 

Climbing in the United Kingdom offers a large variety of climbing, on a number of rock types in remote mountainous regions as well as many urban venues. The climbing is split into regions, with the main areas being England, Scotland and Wales. Each individual country is then separated into distinct climbing areas.

In addition to the climbs themselves climbers who are new to the area will be confronted with two, sometimes distressing things, the unique grading system, and the fickle British weather. The weather at many areas can change numerous times in a day, and rarely stays the same (good or bad) for long. When the weather is bad, you could visit one of the climbing walls dotted around, however, you will have a much better time visiting one of the many excellent pubs which are sure to be close at hand.

The grading system can be confusing to new comers, but when understood the combination of the technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c, 5a, 5b, 5c, etc.) and the adjective grade (Severe, Very Severe, Hard Very Severe, Extremely Severe which is subdivided into E1, E2, E3, E4, etc.)gives you a good understanding from the outset on the technical difficulty of the climb, its sustained nature, as well as the seriousness. In summary an E1 6a tell you that the route has probably only one 6a move, which is either close to the bottom of the climb or very well protected, while an E5 6a, tells you the route is sustained and could well be a serious lead.


Getting There 

The easiest way is to fly into one of the major airports. Probably the most common will be London Heathrow. From there hire a car and tour around. Alternatively you can travel around using public transport (trains and buses), but you’ll find that only works for certain areas, close to urban settlements.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for United Kingdom:
Pain Pillar   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Lowland Outcrops : Aberdour (The Hawkcraig)
The Groove   5.9     Trad, 100 feet   Polney Crag : Main Cliff - Left
Flying Buttress Direct   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Christmas Crack : The Flying Buttress
The Tube   5.11b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Back Bowden Doors : North Area
The Knock   5.11d R     Trad, 30 feet   Burbage South : The Keep
Strapadictomy   5.11d     Trad, 1 pitch, 33 feet   Froggatt Edge : Strapiombo Buttress
Browse More Classics in United Kingdom

Featured Route For United Kingdom
High on the 1st pitch of Lyme Cryme, 5.10d

Lyme Cryme 5.10d  International : United Kingdom : ... : The Main Face
1. Climb the groove with difficulty to airy moves through a band of cracked rock. Continue above the groove steeply to a poor stance.2. Start steeply from the belay and continue directly to a corner which is followed to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in International