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Bugaboos, The 
Chehalis Range 
Fraser Valley Area 
Hwy. 99 North of Whistler 
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British Columbia

Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 15, 2007
Administrator: Peter Spindloe
Latitude: 49.2777  Longitude: -123.1334 
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Snowpatch Spire at sunrise.


Description 

Canada's westernmost province is very fortunate to have some of the mildest climates in the country combined with some of the best rock and mountains around. Marquee areas like Squamish, Skaha and the Bugaboos are only the tip of the iceberg.


Getting There 

Vancouver is easily accessed by air from anywhere and is about three or four hours drive from Seattle. Vancouver puts you within two hours drive of vast amounts of climbing, centered on but not limited to Squamish.

Penticton, in the interior, is about a five hour drive from Vancouver and can be accessed by air either directly or by flying to nearby Kelowna. Skaha is main destination here, but there are other quality locations in the area.

The coastal range is accessed, with difficulty from Vancouver, or by boat or plane.

Vancouver Island, which is home to some good climbing, fine mountaineering, and great trails (like the West Coast Trail) can be reached by ferry from Vancouver, or by flying to the Victoria International Airport.

The more recently developed areas on the Sunshine Coast such as the Eldred Valley are accessed by ferry from Vancouver. There appears to be a lot of potential in this area for huge first ascents.

For the Rockies, which are closer to the border with Alberta, access for out-of-towners is often via Calgary, although the drive can be done from from Vancouver in seven to ten hours depending on your destination.




Featured Route For British Columbia
Kurt Fickeisen climbing out of the cave to start the crux pitch during the first ascent.

East Buttress of the South Peak 5.7  International : Canada : ... : The Old Settler
Begin on the north side of the buttress toe below a prominent slabby dihedral. Climb up along the right side of this dihedral and adjacent cracks and slabs for three pitches up to 5.6. Continue on lower-angle terrain (Class 4 and easy Class 5) for another three pitches (good for simulclimbing) to a belay in a prominent cave. Climb the overhang out the left side of the cave (5.7 crux) and up two more pitches above to the summit dome of the south p...[more]


Add Photo Photos of British Columbia
Looking up at the Joffre formation from the Joffre Lakes parking lot, April 2004.  Hopefully someone will post some information about the routes in this area soon!

BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Joffre formation from the Joffre...

Garibaldi Mountain from the Chief.

Garibaldi Mountain from the Chief.

The Sky Pilot Group from the Chief.  Can someone clarify for me which peak is which?

The Sky Pilot Group from the Chief. Can someone c...

The Emperor Face and North Face of Mt. Robson, just above Berg Lake.  This isn't the greatest scan.  If someone posts a better image of the same face, or I get this rescanned, I'll remove this one.  Picture by Chris McRaild.

BETA PHOTO: The Emperor Face and North Face of Mt. Robson, jus...

The South Face of Mt Waddington, June 2000.

The South Face of Mt Waddington, June 2000.