Mountain Project: Climbing Castle Rocks State Park

Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Dec 20, 2005
Latitude: 42.1354 Longitude: -113.6700
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Description

Castle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan.

Getting There

Castle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. I believe there is currently a small fee for day climbing. The approcahes to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches are between 20-90 minutes for the majority of the climbs.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rocks State Park:

Little Time 5.6 Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet Castle Rock : South Side

Big Time 5.7 Sport, 400 feet Castle Rock : South Side

Zinger 5.8 Sport, 3 pitches, 290 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...

Between Heaven and Earth 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...

Red Rib 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 195 feet Castle Rock : Southwest Side

Crimson Arete 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Castle Rock : East Face

Shock and Awe 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Castle Rock : West Buttress

Mantle Dynamics 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Competition Rock, East Side

Twinkie 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...

Ho Ho 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...

Honeymoon in Almo 5.11a Sport, 100 feet Castle Rock : Hostess Gully aka Tasteful ...

Featured Route For Castle Rocks State Park

Splitter 5.11b/c ID : Castle Rocks State Park : Competition Wall, South Sid...

This is one of prettiest 5.11 crack lines at the City and Castle Rocks. The rating has been documented as 5.11a, but the moves at the overhang are stiff and a little bit heady for the grade.P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back. Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this ...[more] Browse More Classics in ID

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