Wacos to the left-of-center mark top of "Captain A...
Description
After following the main trail, there is an obvious branch to a side canyon on the right. Immediately on the right is a 'hueco ridden' buttress. This is Captain America. Do a very short 3rd class scramble up to a belay ledge. Note there is a very helpful hold (perhaps glued?? Bob - history??) to aid in this ascent.
The first clip is easy - step up, clip, step down, and then readdress the problem straight on. Note that peeling while clipping bolt 2 is not good. It is not a hard move, but stupid people like myself will hurt their ankle. Bob D's guidebook says not to lower or TR off the anchors - we did not see this as an issue...???
I led this yesterday (9/6/2004). A nice climb if only it was a bit longer. Note: about 200 yards from the parking area on the main trail we ran into a nice fat beefy rattlesnake. Just beware when approaching the climbs in this area as it is a long way to the hospital.
With respect to the top anchor comments on Captain America here is what I observed. The existing anchors consist of three bolts. As I recall the two on the left were rap anchors and the one on the right had a clip hanger on it. The anchor in the middle had a beefy chain hanging from it. One of the bolts was loose and could use tightening.
Further, below the fixed anchors were two empty bolt holes and a third bolt that was chopped and left in the hole. Perhaps those bolt holes and/or the chopped bolt made up the original anchor that was less inspiring.
Cheers,Chris
By Derek Lawrence From: Bailey May 29, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Fun climb but felt stiff for 10a. Did the flake on the left at the first bolt break off recently? (looks like there migth be a scar). I did not see anything weird about the initial slab....
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 2, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I've never really liked this one. The crux is definitely more strenuous than 10a as compared to other 10s in the canyon - small feet with slopey pockets or awkward sidepulls on overhanging rock. Also, the second bolt is pretty high given the ledge below. The rest of the route has some fun huecos though.
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