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The 44 

5.10

   

FA: Mayrose & Leitinger, 1965
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 150 feet
Views: 273 page views

Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 23, 2005


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Description 

A different way to get to the Fat City chimney. Note that this route is one and a half pitches of 5.8 and that the second pitch ends with the FC crux which is 5.10. The regular FC start is superior. The first pitch of The 44 is a no star, but P2 has some nice climbing.

Start about 50 feet left of the regular FC start at a wide, bushy crack with bushy dogleg left at about 20'.

Grovel up the first 20' hitting a hard spot at about 15'. Walk the dogleg then continue up. About 30' after the dogleg there is a good spot to belay which needs 3" gear. Gillett indicates the belay is about 30' higher at an old, useless bolt with no stance; this looked like a poor place to belay. After the bolt there is a nice handcrack which deposits you at the base of the FC chimney. Proceed up FC.


Protection 

Fat City rack plus cams up to 3.5".



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By Mike Carnes
Apr 18, 2007

Just climbed this the other day and found that setting a belay just after the dog leg in the pod makes for a beautiful link up with the Fat City roof. I would almost say I like this approach better than the regular approach because it ends up being like 80 ft. of hands up to the bombay slot below the roof.