A luxury climb - you will like it. I agree with the Old Fart: no need for the gear, unless you're practicing placements. It's super safe with the bolts that are there. Leave your scruples behind about bolted cracks and climb this one - I did, and got the best climb of my day out of it.
For posterity . . .so we all swallow our pride (ethics) sometimes. I guess these days Shelf is the perfect place to do just that. That being said, this climb was fun. The motion was constant and moves pretty consistent. Not sure if there was a single spot of 10b but I'll leave that for you all to decide. Only one pure stemming move with the feet so never really tiring as there was always a good rest at least a move away. A pretty aesthetic route for this section of Shelf Road. That's it.
This is a great climb on Cactus Cliff, recommend to anyone at Shelf Road.
By kjdetlor From: Monument CO/ Collegedale TN Mar 12, 2007
Sick route, some of the coolest stemming moves I've done out at Shelf. Definitely a must do when out at Cactus.
By phil wortmann From: Manitou Springs, Co. Nov 26, 2007
There is no way you need to place gear between bolts unless you are aiding it! If you get the urge to do so, give the lead to someone else, or lead something easier. This is not run-out by any standards, even Shelf's.
By Katy H From: Kernville, CA Oct 15, 2008 rating: 5.10-
Definitely one of the best routes I did at Shelf. Didn't feel like .10 at all! The last move to the anchors was a little confusing but there is a bomber hold off left that you just have to look for.
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