BETA PHOTO: Ghostrider topo (courtesy of Range Of Light Produc...
Description
Great route -- well-protected face cruxes and some wild, varied trad climbing on pitches 1-3, transitioning abruptly to sport-bolted knob pulling for the next 5 pitches. You can leave your packs in the bowl atop P4 if you plan to rap the route, since you will pass by here on the way down and won't need the gear after this point.
P1: tunnel through a bizarre chimney to a two-bolt belay, 5.9.
P2: tightly bolted face climbing (5.10c) to a wide crack (5.10a).
P3: wild, airy underclings protected with multiple big cams (5.10a) culminating in a small bolt-protected roof (5.10a). This pitch is the reason you should ignore the Satoris start variation!
P4: face climb past 4 bolts to a large bowl-shaped ledge (5.8).
P5-P8: bolted knob pulling for 4 solid pitches of carefree sport climbing (5.9, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10a or 5.10c variation to the right).
Descent: rap the route (see topo for most efficient sequence).
Variations:
Satoris (5.8) joins this route at P4 but you miss the fun of P3, which is one of the highlights of the route. Bring wide gear.
Wonderwall P1 was used for the FA, giving one pitch of runout 5.9 to a short linkup at 5.7 below the 5.10c bolted low crux. This avoids the fun tunnel-through on P1.
Rumor has it that MS and an itinerant grad student are planning to bolt a finish to all this...
Look for a cairned turnoff from the hiker's trail beneath the buttress, and head up to the start under Satoris.
Protection
Draws for P4-P8, full trad rack (multiple #4 and #5 Camalots helpful on P3) for both Ghostrider and Satoris start variations. Unless you plan to summit via Wonderwall or Satoris, two 60m ropes are MANDATORY to rappel the route!
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Jan 20, 2007
I would like to add my two cents worth. I found the crux pitches harder than I expected (felt like 5.10d to me, and the undercling was tough too!)), and the top face pitches seemed to go on forever. Still, a very good adventure, and a worthwhile climb with a short approach. And you can have a burger and fries at the end of the road resturant too when you get done!
Don't be intimidated by the Grade rating of this climb; this eight-pitch climb is much shorter and less demanding than those Grade IV's found in Yosemite (in fact, in my opinion this route is a Grade III unless summitting). The cracks protect well and the face pitches are well-bolted and in addition go extremely quickly. Also, the huge ledge half way up the route makes for a great place to kick off the climbing shoes, rest, and have lunch.
Due to the above reasons, this is an excellent climb for those wanting to do a longer route that haven't yet done so. The short approach and brainless, non-committing descent (rappel the route), also add to the friendly quality of this route.
In my opinion, pitches two and three--the best pitches by far--should be combined. This makes for an awesome, strenuous, and long pitch with both cruxes of the climb (10c face and 10a roof traverse) combined in one pitch.
Anybody "run" into that weird "bolt" on P-2? Third one as you move past the belay and before rounding the corner. You can't clip it; the eye is too small. Looks like something you'd find at a hardware store.
Bruce, I saw that bolt and took a photo. Nice unit.
~Susan
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Sep 12, 2007 rating: 5.10c/d
Pitch 1: Topo has 5.6 with some 5.9 at the top. Don't be fooled. The 5.6 must be the walkup, and in the chimney is at a minimum 5.8 and a hassle with a pack. Great pitch though, and worth doing. Once you exit the chimney, it might be 5.4 to the station. Chimney takes good pro in the back using 2.5" to 4.5" cams. It protects well and is nothing to be worried about. Anchor is a 1/4" bolt and a fairly old 3/8 bolt. Back it up with a large stopper out right. Bomber!
Pitch 2 & 3: String these together for sure. The moves to pass the bolts are pretty hard, right away. Topo shows 4 bolts in that section, but there are actually 3, with the top one the weird 1/4" guy that is not really needed. A 3.5" cam protects the transition from face/layback to crack. Easy laybacking leads to another bolt and the nice undercling. A couple of long runners is all you need. Pro in the undercling is 4" at the start and gets smaller. Use a 2.5" cam to get set for the roof moves. A bolt protects the moves over the roof.
Pitch 4: Easy and short. Maybe 5.7 with a few bolts. A bolt protects the hardest move, just before getting onto the big ledge.
Pitch 5 and onward: Start on the top of the pillar.... follow bolts upward. No real cruxes on the 5th, 6th, or 7th pitches. Maybe 5.8+, not 5.10. 7th pitch use a long sling on the second to last bolt.... it zigzags a bit. Pitch 8 starts out easy and then has a small boulder problem that is probably 10a minus. We went left and it was easy past this to the anchor.
6 raps with two 70m ropes to ground, following the route. Rack: 7 -8 draws 7 - 8 long slings/draws few Med to Large stoppers 1ea 3/4" - 1.5" cams 2ea 2" - 3" cams 1 #3.5 Camalot 1 4" Cam 1 #4 or #4.5 Camalot (for first pitch if you push cams)
Whitney Portal Buttress
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