Mitch Musci stems in a nice opposing corner in the...
Description
A brilliant introduction to the Pinnacle...
4 pitches total featuring some great climbing on immaculate, clean sierra granite. Joins up with 'Cucumbers' near the beginning of pitch 3 (pitch 2 of 'Cucumbers') The first pitch of 'Cucumbers' can be rapped and/or toproped by building an anchor on a good ledge 30 feet to the right of the third pitch belay station of 'The West Face'. We rapped off our gear, pulled ropes and led the first pitch of 'Cukes' (recommended) because it looked too good to pass up, and it was...
Pitch 1: Start at the detached block at the base with finger cracks in both sides (the right side is slightly easier, both 5.9ish). Climb cracks and corners with good gear straight up. Don't get sucked left in the changing corners... instead make a big step out right just below the bush, into the next finger crack (crux .10a). Make some fun moves using a thin crack and face holds up to a large ledge that runs left (this will be your last rappel station on your descent), and continue up and right for 20ish feet to the bolt anchor on a ledge at the base of the obvious corner. (5.10a)
Pitch 2: Follow the corner with the perfect handcrack, then traverse right onto the slab with easy holds to gain the clean-cut, left-facing dihedral. Good features on the face just left of the seam lead to the top of the corner. Step right with face holds around the arete (crux) to the bolt anchor on a small but comfortable stance. (5.10a)
Pitch 3: (Pitch 2 of 'Cucumbers') Step up and traverse right for 20ish feet, then continue straight up on face holds and broken crack systems (a little awkward and tricky) to gain the short but beautiful finger and hand crack on the slab. Go left at the horizontal break and belay with hand-size cams at the base of a chimney. (5.9+)
Pitch 4: Climb the chimney and handcrack, then break left onto semi-chossy face holds to the exposed block with rap anchors. (5.8)
Descent: Four 35 meter rappels (two 60m ropes/one 70m rope). On the first rappel, head for the (climber's) left side of the giant roof. You can also walk off around the back, but why would you do such a thing?
Location
Hike up the steep talus to the left side of the wall under the giant roofs. Find the short block with cracks up both sides and you're off.
Protection
Standard rack to #4 camalot, bring one or two extra hand-sized cams for the belay at the top of pitch 3. Two 60m ropes, or one 70m.
Pitch 1: One airy step right (10a) at the changing corners will keep you on route. An additional fun, airy move further to the right will put you at the bottom of a clean fist crack (20ft, 5.8). A fun deviation, if not part of the route proper.
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