By Alex Shainman From: Boulder, CO Sep 12, 2007 rating: 5.11c/d
This is a great, short pitch of finger locks...Its way SHARP!! Tape your fingers because its sharpness may be the deciding factor to send or not. Probably not quite 5.12 as compared to other routes in the nearby areas (11c/d)...Not as hard as Heart Of Stone (another Clevenger route)...Better rack beta would be a 3.5 Friend in the starting flake. A good, sideways medium stopper once standing in the crack. Then, doubles of Yellow and Red Aliens to a 1.5 Friend and then another medium nut or two. Because of rope drag from the anchor its not a good TR. Walk off way to the back and around.
By Vic Lawson From: Bishop, CA May 31, 2008 rating: 5.11c/d
Awesome route! Must do! Probably about .11d. There will be extention webbing/quicklinks on top by mid June sometime to facillitate TR soloing, toproping, and lowering. [please do not steal the equipment!]
We saw this crack from the road and hiked up and hopped on it without a guide book. My friend led it first and cruised it. I asked how hard it was and he said he wasn't sure, but thought about 5.10+, so I pulled the rope to lead it. At about the third hang I suspected I'd been sandbagged. I'd say this thing is somewhat harder than 10+ and somewhat easier than 12-. (btw he still maintains that it's 5.10+)
Oh yea, to find it scramble up some ledges to the left just after the approach trail passes an enormous boulder. It starts on a big ledge half-way up the cliff, a little left of an obvious wide-ish crack (Classic Crack).