Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
SF Bay Area
Make this area a Favorite 
What's New in this area
Best Routes for You in this area
Books on SF Bay Area (17)
Photos > Recent | Best | Popular

Show routes:
Select Area...
Beaver Street Wall 
Castle Rock State Park 
Crab Town 
Cragmont Park 
Dry Creek Sea Crag 
Fort Ross 
Glen Canyon 
Goat Rock State Beach 
Grizzly Peak Boulders 
Indian Rock 
Lake Temescal Park 
Mickey's Beach 
Mount Diablo State Park 
Mount St. Helena 
Mount Tamalpais 
Nut Tree Boulders, The 
Panther Beach 
Peninsula Buildering 
Pinnacles National Monument 
Putah Creek 
Remillard Park 
Ring Mountain 
Salt Point State Park 
Skyline Slabs 
Squaw Cliff Area 
Sugarloaf Ridge State Park 
Sunol Regional Wilderness 
Super Slab 
Twin Coves 


SF Bay Area


4 people found this page useful
Administrator: Aron Quiter
Latitude: 37.8488  Longitude: -121.9310 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
Views: 221,150 page views

Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Discussions available in the
Northern California
Message Forum
 Printer Friendly View

Dave on Gimme My Forty Sucka, Hidden Boulder


Old Training Ground Meets Locals' Playground 

While not generally thought of as a destination area for rock climbing, the pure number of visitors that head to the bay area for other purposes make this a great location for a quick day on the rock in between other commitments.

You can climb year round in the Bay Area, provided that winter rains haven't pummeled the area too recently. Often, inland areas are extremely hot in the summer, though the coastal areas will stay pleasant.

American Big Wall climbing took its first roots here, with locals practicing their skills on local rocks before heading to Yosemite for its renowned cliffs. Almost every area that has a chimney in Northern California was first climbed by Warren Harding or Forrest Shute, and you will often see a piton stuck in the rock left over from climbers of another age.

Berkeley, Castle Rock and Sonoma will hold your attention for a great day of bouldering. Mount Saint Helena or Lover's Leap (in the Tahoe Area, but still only about 2 hours drive from most locations), or Table Mountain for a sport or trad experience.

Visitors and locals alike should check out the area along the Sonoma coast for a sport or bouldering experience unique to California, where waves, wind and rock found only here make an unforgettable day's climbing.

People with several days free in the Bay Area will probably want to head East to the Tahoe area in the Summer or Fall, to Yosemite for the trad folks, and perhaps all the way out (6-8 hours) to the Eastern Sierra areas like Bishop and Mammoth for a world class alpine, sport, or bouldering experience.

Unfortunately, a significant portion of the best climbing in the Bay Area is on private property, and unless you're in the know, you don't get to go.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for SF Bay Area:
Living a Dream   V6     Boulder, 14 feet   Fort Ross : Fort Ross - Main Rock
Nat's Traverse   V8     Boulder, 10 feet   Indian Rock : Mortar Rock
Dog Dish Traverse   V?     Boulder, 10 feet   Castle Rock State Park : Magoos, The
Swallow Crack   5.6     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Pinnacles National Monument : Discovery Wall
Portent   5.6 R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Pinnacles National Monument : Discovery Wall
Cave Route   5.8-     Sport, 2 pitches, 140 feet   Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
University of Santa Clara Practice Climb 1   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Castle Rock State Park : Summit Rock - Castle Rock
Ordeal   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Pinnacles National Monument : Discovery Wall
The Wet Kiss   5.9     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pinnacles National Monument : Discovery Wall
Lower Tier, Amazing Face   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks
Farewell to Arms   5.10a     TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Cragmont Park : Cragmont - East Face
Lower Tier, Ozone   5.10c     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks
Sign Language   5.10c     Sport, 70 feet   Mickey's Beach : The Egg
Post Orgasmic Depression   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pinnacles National Monument : Monolith
Lower Tier, Bolt Route   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks
Egghead   5.11b R     Sport, 60 feet   Mickey's Beach : The Egg
The Verdict (direct)   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Pinnacles National Monument : Discovery Wall
Clamydia   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Castle Rock State Park : Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff...
Donkey Dong   5.12a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Castle Rock State Park : Indian Rock - Castle Rock
Sex Porpoises   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Mickey's Beach : Main Rock
Browse More Classics in SF Bay Area


Featured Route For SF Bay Area
Starting the Bates Arete problem on the backside of Castle Rock Proper

Bates Arete V4 R  CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Bates Arete Boulder
The Bates Arete is one of the best problems of its grade in The Bay Area. Starting low on the right side of the rock, and about 25 feet long, first traversing up a steep overhang complete with large jugs and slopers leaving the desire for a good rest.The climb turns the corner from a good traverse into an uphill battle along a long solid arete where landings are bad. A final mantle, and the problem is yours. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of SF Bay Area Slideshow Add Photo
Frank Santos bouldering at The Mezzones. Now closed.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Frank Santos bouldering at The Mezzones. Now close...

Roscoe at The Mezzones.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Roscoe at The Mezzones.
Photo by Blitzo.


Dave at The Mezzones.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Dave at The Mezzones.
Photo by Blitzo.


The Grateful Dead at Oakland Coliseum, February, 1995.<br />One of the Bay Area's best known bands.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

The Grateful Dead at Oakland Coliseum, February, 1...

The Golden Gate.<br />Photo by Blitzo.<br /><br />

The Golden Gate.
Photo by Blitzo.



Mezzones.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Mezzones.
Photo by Blitzo.



Comments on SF Bay Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 18, 2006

The Mezzones was a very cool bouldering area in the South Bay.
It was pretty trashy, with graffiti on the boulders, but the sandstone was wonderful!
It is now a golf course and therefore closed.