Get ready for six pitches of slab climbing on anot...
Description
Super fun six pitch route up the left front side of the Sheepshead. The bulk of the climb is easy to moderate slab climbing protected by bolts. But each pitch has a distinct crux to keep the 9+/10a leader fully entertained. Expect runout sections on easier ground. The middle section of pitch one follows a wide crack system that requires trad gear. This is the only pitch that requires a trad rack. On pitch two, at the top of the brown streak, the bolt line forks. The bolts to the left are for a DIFFERENT route. Follow the new bolts that go up and right. Pitch three pulls a short steep headwall. The upper section of pitch four ascends a rounded slab. Bring several long slings to protect pitch five. Move the belay up and left for the last pitch which is outrageous (more mental than physical for both the leader and follower). Follow the bolt line on the left side of the final headwall. If you have any concerns, there are two alternate finishes on the right up the wide slot. One is a bolted right angling sporty pitch that is fun and just as hard (IMO) as the standard finish to TTTD. Can't comment on the chimney.
Location
The main trail to the Sheepshead takes you to the start of Absinthe of Mallet. From this point hike left and up along the base of the Sheepshead towards Ewephoria. Continue past a large roof/overhang. Look for three closely spaced bolts that angle up and right toward a small tree. Above this tree, you can see a bolt on a small lichen covered roof. After the crack, you basically follow the bolt line. Descend by walking off the back side and contouring left. Follow cairns to a well worn trail. Make sure to bring your walk off shoes.
Protection
The majority of the route is bolted. All belay stations have fixed anchors. I carried 8 shoulder length slings and 6-8 quickdraws. For pitch one, I would recommend a single set of cams from medium fingers to a blue Camalot.
Greg, maybe he was indicating the presence of rappable anchors in case bad weather arose and a team wanted to bail? (Although to be honest, I can't remember if I noticed whether any or all of them could be rapped from when I climbed it...and if they aren't all set up for rappel, then I guess one couldn't bail, eh...)
Joe-- I'm unsure what you mean when you say "it's outrageous" when moving the belay from top of p4 to start of p5. Only because I don't remember the move being any big deal whatsoever...Maybe a moment or two of scrambling and then you're on a giant ledge. I also don't see you as a climber who would find this sketchy??
The trad stuff is around 5.8 or so. Nothing very extreme. It was easy to get the gear in. I tried this on a very light rack (4 pieces?) and wanted more but you don't need that much - I'd go with camalots from .75 to 3 and 3 - 4 large wires.
I lead around the same rating as Brooke in trad and I do not agree the first pitch crack is 5.8. Definitely felt more like 5.9 to me. Also, the crux slab move on that pitch, while bolted, is pretty committing and sets up for a pendulum swing--doesn't feel like a typical sport move at all...
Two and a half stars? YMBFKM. This is one of the best, most varied routes in Cochise. The finish is spectacular. Not as hard as it looks, but some of the best exposure in The Stronghold.
Very fun route, with the last 2 pitches being the funnest & I think pitch 2 being the crux. 3/4 stars at least (mostly due to the lower angle section on P3 & 4).
...I have just confirmed that you cannot link pitches 3 & 4 with a 70m rope... In case anyone was wondering. There is, however, a good tree about 30 feet past the actual anchors to belay from with a huge ants' nest to sit in (red ants) if you are stupid enough to try. They were fairly benign for red ants. :-) FYI-- I took a single rack from #1 Metolius to #3 Camalot and used everything except the #1 Camalot and #4 Metolius. I definitely didn't sew up the route, but wasn't run out either.
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